Orchids need a new substrate every 2–3 years. Pine bark decomposes, sphagnum becomes compact, roots push out of the pot. If you miss the timing, you risk root rot. The right time depends on the genus — and the condition of the roots, not the calendar.
Three indicators say regardless of the schedule: repot now.
If you lose more than half of the roots after trimming, you should place the plant in sphagnum moss instead of bark — a more humid recovery climate.
Do not water for 3 to 7 days. Then return to normal watering. Fertilize again only after 4 weeks, when roots are healthy. Place in semi-shade, avoid direct midday sun.
Only in an emergency — if the substrate is decomposed and roots are rotting. Otherwise, wait for the post-flowering phase. Buds may otherwise be dropped.
For Phalaenopsis, the timing is more flexible than for other genera — possible year-round, except in the 4 to 6 weeks when a new sheath is forming. Classic timing: after flowering in spring.
Recommended for Phalaenopsis and all genera whose roots use light for photosynthesis. Also practical for checking root color (silvery = water). Not essential for Paphiopedilum or Cymbidium.
Generously remove all dead roots, dust cut sites with cinnamon. Place plant in moist sphagnum moss instead of bark. Transparent pot, semi-shaded, 6–10 weeks patience until new roots form.
Not before 4 weeks. Fertilizer solution attacks open cut sites. Then start with half concentration, normal dose after 8 weeks.
One size larger than the old one. If you switch from a 12 cm pot directly to an 18 cm pot, you risk permanent moisture in the substrate excess and root rot.
1 Valid for the first order. Your discount will be deducted automatically.